Uttolo

Uttolo is a rifugio-style restaurant in Baunei that doubles as a base for exploring the rugged Ogliastra coast — it's actually used as a landmark for finding the trail down to Pedra Longa. The vibe is relaxed and no-frills, with a large terrace and rooms with air conditioning if you want to stay the night. The owner doesn't speak much English, but don't let that put you off — people make it work.